Cognitive Couture

The New Fall Staple

2009-09-15T16:18:00.000-07:00

As every season comes and goes so does your wardrobe staples. With winter comes a great coat, spring, the casual wedge and summer is filled with the perfect swimsuit quest. The Fall staple? Boots. This season the runway exploded with the most beautifully designed boots.

Christian Louboutin, Prada and Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodante were the Fall 2009 footwear leaders. Their designs were forward with immaculate craftsmanship. They all combined the trendy over the knee silhouette, with silver hardware and slouchy leather. The trickle down effect was pioneered flawlessly by Joie and Aldo.

When wearing this edgy staple style just as you would tights or leggings. Pair with the latest leather mini or a baggy boyfriend shirt. To get the look for less try Joie’s Twiggy style or Aldo’s Velardi style.

Amerachina

2009-09-11T15:06:00.000-07:00

Is the American shopping attitude morphing into that of China? I work at a high end men's boutique, and even with our clientele ranging from producers to agents to doctors and lawyers I still feel like I have a little hut in the middle of a Chinese market. The infamous recession is slowly evolving our shopping culture into a climate identical to the Chinese black market. If the American culture is demanding eco-friendly and American made products there is no room for haggling. If society is against the man, then how come our preferred shopping habits are killing small business owners? The conflicting desires among consumers today are throwing independent retailers into an even more chaotic downturn. Next time you are temped to haggle, just remember our marketplace will surly reap the benefits.

Trend Watch: Navajo

2009-08-19T12:41:00.000-07:00

Being a proud Oklahoma citizen you can only imagine the excitement that filled my heart when the Native American influence made a mark in fashion history. Even though the Navajo fad will make it's departure as quick as it's appearance, there's still something quite nostalgic to know my heritage had a minute of fame. The fabrics and patterns of Navajo is a drastic change from the 40's silhouettes of F/W '09.

Overall, this trend is highly welcomed and executed extremely well by Pendleton/Opening Ceremony. Pendleton is a brand with a rich history of producing Native American fabrics and textiles since the 1800s. Opening Ceremony has teamed up with Pendleton to collaborate a trendy meets outdoorsy line. The outcome of the line is an ingenius artistic approach to our nation's richest and earliest settlers.

(To get this look for less check out Club Monaco, Forever 21 or Moyna.)

Budget Friendly Fall Staples

2009-08-17T14:25:00.000-07:00

Fall is prime time to claim your F/W season staples. Designers have done an amazing job releasing on-trend budget friendly options. My top picks for key wardrobe pieces this season are scarves, schoolboy blazers, over the knee boots, nylon totes and a great time piece. When money is tight your greatest investment is one you can wear with anything. Rather than snatching up the latest dress you might want to consider how versable it is. These staples are sure to give you extra wear through those mild autumn days and cold winter nights.

Giorgio Armani + Anna B. Sheppard = Brad Pitt

2009-08-14T14:31:00.000-07:00

Costume designer, Anna B. Sheppard collaborated with leading designer, Giorgio Armani for the latest Pitt Flick, "Inglourious Basterds”. When two immaculate designers come together and dress Brad Pitt the outcome is absolutely infallible. The release date for “Inglourious Basterds” is August 21, 2009. (The above photograph is Armani's sketch of the design.)

Anna Wintour on Letterman

2009-08-14T13:31:00.000-07:00

Anna Wintour on The Letterman Show? Many are questioning motives for this meet & greet on national television. But one thing is to be true, along with the Letterman regulars there will be fashionistas and skeptics tuned in for this long awaited engagement. Will it be a standard Letterman powwow or will Wintour be wiggling in her seat? Make sure to mark your calendars for August 24, for this might put Joaquin Phoenix's interview to shame.

Inspiration: Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte

2009-08-14T11:24:00.000-07:00

The Miley Cyrus photo shoot in Elle Magazine is my absolute favorite shoot I've seen in a long time. Everything from the Michael Kors dress to the thigh high Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte boots was absolutely perfect. It is evident that stylist, Joe Zee and photographer, Carter Smith work extremely well together. There is so much inspiration to take from the chunky chains to the polished 80s look. Elle Magazine truly went above and beyond my greatest expectations.

Street Style: Rodeo

2009-08-13T23:13:00.001-07:00

I adore the style of these girls. Balencia, hot pink and skinny jeans. Could a high schooler ask for anything else?

The Fashion Cycle's Intermission

2009-08-12T16:01:00.000-07:00

August is a particularly interesting month for the fashion cycle due to it’s placement between two fabulous seasons. This is the perfect month to pair your favorite fall pieces with your steamy summer favs. It’s a great time to start playing with the new fall pallet and mixing in the sexiest pieces of F/W ’09. For the perfect August combination pair trenches with shirt shorts and the summer heel. My number one piece to start mixing in is the sought after over-the-knee-boot. Perfect the look with your favorite vintage chain. August truly is the most playful intermission of the fashion cycle, so make sure to soak up every last drop.

D'Plazzo Couture Designs

2009-06-17T13:44:00.000-07:00

The nostalgic wedding season is in full force as my mouth starts watering for wedding cake, champagne, and well—a new dress. When I was a little girl I loved going to weddings because I would sit through the entire ceremony mentally designing my own wedding. Before I could even convince a guy to take me on a date, I found close friends picking up Bridal publications and designing their own weddings. What is it about this special day that is so precious and close to us? As much attention goes into the ring, venue, catering and well maybe even the Mr. the true main event is the bride, and there is no such thing as a gownless bride. Today I am going to feature a dear friend, Debra Sanders, and her unparalleled bridal designs.

Debra Sanders is the head designer for the couture label, D’Plazzo Designs. Sanders’ operates her label nothing shy of superior service with a unique flair to her couture designs. This label is truly rare because of the pivotal role her clients play in the design phase. The bride will meet with Sanders and has the opportunity to truly collaborate and co-design her own gown. Brides are encouraged to bring ideas, fabrics, and magazine tears. (A dream come true for all of us editorial junkies.) Once Sanders is able to capture your vision she works with her talented team to come up with a few design concepts. As a bride you have complete creative freedom and can tweak any final detail(s) before the sewing begins.

D’Plazzo Designs authentically captures your dreams and translates them into reality. Every bride has the opportunity to walk down the aisle and land in her own fairytale—Debra Sanders truly is the god mother we have all been waiting for.

2009-06-17T13:36:00.001-07:00

The Evolved Focus

2009-06-04T10:33:00.000-07:00

For the longest time I have been fixated on how the fashion industry morphed after the Great Depression. From that era till now is what we know of the fashion industry—the luxury giants who have become the backbone of all that is beautiful. Now that we have found ourselves mirroring the Great Depression I have become even more fixated on where the industry is headed. It seems as though the luxury giants have been scrambling to figure this out when the answer is right outside their front door. Whether you are on 5th Avenue or the Fashion District the first people you encounter are the homeless. So how exactly could the homeless influence one of the largest industries of the world? It’s not due to the fact that a major portion of the homeless have actually spent time in a few factories or how the luxury consumer has relied so greatly on government programs to feed this growing class. (Quite the cycle if you ask me.) It’s due to a rising movement that has yet to truly stake it’s name, so for now I will refer to it as the For-Profit-Non-Profit-Fashion Movement (FPNPFM if you will). I fear the fashion empires will truly have to experience their lowest low before they can hop on board with this movement. It’s one of creativity, passion and love. One where the designer would rather spend an extra 10 cents per garment to know that an actual hand is sewing the garment rather than a sweat shop victim feeding a machine. It’s a movement of Fair Trade and providing jobs for the jobless.

With fashion being a reflection of society one can’t help but look at our great moments in history and see the tremendous reflection it’s had on this industry. Some have been highlights that could be ESPN worthy and some are those that history books with someday bear the legacy. Either way we can’t forget all the jobs that these fashion empires have created in the world. It’s just time to make a change, put our heads together and figure out where exactly fashion is headed. For the first time it seems as though the main concern isn’t just apparel trends, but rather the internal workings of how the company runs. This is anywhere from the origination of fabric, assembling the garment to packaging goods.

As designers, companies and consumers are reevaluating every dollar they spend, it just seems fitting that fashion is reflecting this movement. The FPNPFM is building a strong foundation for the fashion industry to someday call it’s home.

The Great Awakening

2009-05-20T11:02:00.000-07:00

Recently it seems as though the fashion industry has become a born again news station due to the headlines bearing anything but the latest collections. Is this recession the unofficial sabbatical for designers? It’s an interesting concept and as I look into greater detail it seems as though there has been a shift in today’s fashionistas. Rather than running to check the latest shipment at Bendel’s or Barneys we find ourselves checking Gilt Group and WhoWhatWear.com before we even take a sip of our morning coffee. Is this a minor fad that will soon fade or is this the Great Awakening for today’s fashionistas? As for our quasi-debrief of today’s headlines, it seems all to appropriate to tell you to grab a glass of wine or maybe even a cocktail before you settle into the rest of this post.

Saks Inc. slimmed down by $44 million in expenses for the first quarter—more than they had expected to cut for the entire year.
• Link: http://origin.www.wwd.com/business-news/saks-reports-q1-loss-2140143?src=rss/recentstories/20090519

Burberry posts an $8.8 million loss for the year, compared to the $232.5 million profit of the previous year.
• Link: http://origin.www.wwd.com/business-news/burberry-posts-loss-for-full-year-2140124

Struggling Gap is picking themselves up by their bootstraps and creating a stronger business model for their U.S. and Canadian business.
• Link: http://origin.www.wwd.com/business-news/gap-plots-international-expansion- ecommerce-push-2141150

So as you’re reaching for a second glass of whatever pulled you through the news debrief, take a breath and allow me to finish up on a positive note. The top stock performers include:
• Saks (SKS)
• Gildan Activewear (GIL)
• Tween Brands (TWB)
• Talbots (TLB)
• Stein Mart (SMRT)
• Home Shopping Network (HSNI)

Take a deep breath and consider this recession a nudge to enjoy what you have and learn to love simplicity.

"The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion"

2009-05-06T11:52:00.001-07:00

The Costume Institute Gala was the official fashion event of the season. Co-chairs of the event included Marc Jacobs, Kate Moss, Anna Wintour and Justin Timberlake. The Metropolitan Museum was absolutely packed out with the biggest stars known to fashion and entertainment.

No worries if you missed the Grammy's, Oscars or Emmy's because the MET steps had the most glamorous red carpet of 2009. The night was a tribute to the super model and all that is beautiful. The event kicked off with the best fashions and well, maybe the worst of the season.

The designs of choice by half the guest list included Stella McCartney, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and Versace. It was a night for designers to have their muses dressed to the nines in their best creations. To kick off the best dressed list Versace (Atelier) dressed my top three: Jessica Biel, Gisele Bündchen and Blake Lively. The worst of the night included Madonna, Diane Kruger and Shalom Harlow. Rachel Bilson, Elizabeth Hurley and Leighton Meester get the "Wrong Look" award.

Overall, the night was an absolute hit and despite the economy the fashion industry finally got to let loose and ignore all that is looming in the air.

2009-05-06T11:45:00.001-07:00

Spring/Summer 2009 Trends: The Great Escape

2009-04-23T00:00:00.001-07:00

We have officially hit the Spring season and are ready to start busting out the trends for Spring/Summer 2009! In fashion circles there is always so much talk about what’s to come for the following year that it seems like we can hardly ever truly enjoy the trends we’re living in now. This week’s post will answer the rare question of what’s now, rather than what’s to come. There are so many fabulously diverse trends happening because there are indefinite varying affairs going on in the world today. The coverage of this season alone almost seems a daunting task because there are so many influences and outlets of the Spring/Summer 09 season.

Today we will start Spring/Summer 2009 off with such a dynamic theme, “The Great Escape”. It is a category filled with bold African and Asian influenced patterns, safari suits and western accessories. The main influence of The Great Escape is the outlet of globalization. Designers toyed with patterns, silhouettes and influences of varying cultures around the world. They were able to produce beautifully eccentric collections which truly evoked a great escape. The main giants of this trend are Basso & Brooke, Alexander McQueen, Dior by John Galliano and Louis Vuitton.

2009-04-22T23:56:00.001-07:00

McQueen's Perspective on Fashion & Society

2009-04-16T15:14:00.000-07:00

I’m a strong believer in the idea of fashion being a reflection of society, so with all that’s going on in our culture, there’s just that much and more happening on the runway. We’re seeing every designer revisit the core of what made them successful: their strength, personal style, perspective, and passions. Essentially what makes every designer so different from one another is their world view. For example Alexander McQueen has made quite the statement for his Spring/Summer 2009 collection, “We’re in danger of killing the planet through greed. This collection is about me looking at the world and seeing what we’ve done.” McQueen’s collection is a product of something so close to his heart. This exact personal world view might be the very reason Target was able to snatch up his impeccable designs. Here’s a little sneak peek of McQueen’s futuristic meets traditional collection.

2009-04-16T15:13:00.001-07:00

The Call to Reinvention

2009-04-06T13:57:00.000-07:00

When fashion is a reflection of society it’s no surprise that a fashion shift has begun to mirror the current recession. For the past twenty years our society has been one of excess, filled with debt, beautiful things and living above our means. The current state of our economy has jolted many American’s out of our fantasy land and into reality. We are reassessing our budgets and scrutinizing where every penny is spent. The lifestyle of dropping anywhere from $500 to $20,000 a weekend is a closed era. Regardless of what class a citizen belongs to, living above our means is an age we should considered history.

So what does this mean for the fashion industry? Who is taking advantage of the shift and who is being left out to dry? Couture fashion will never die, it’s a true art form business aside. To say High-fashion is dead, would be the same as telling a musician to put away his instruments. Both fashion and music have great leaps ahead of them, however both industries will soon find their new grove.

Target is the perfect example of a company who is taking advantage of the current fashion shift. They are bringing in top designers who are producing quality fashionable pieces at an economically friendly price.

JC Penney is another to mention. They just released a commercial about their new “make-over” in the women’s department. JC Penney and Wal-Mart are now following Target’s lead in producing an on-trend assortment in their clothing departments.

Obvious companies that were one-step ahead of the shift are H&M and Forever21. The companies who are experiencing the greatest struggle are the ones who accommodated the American fantasy land. There are only so many creative ways you can get people to spend money they don’t have. The events, parties, and incentives will soon find their grave and those companies will have a hard reality, they will either sink or swim. Continuing on their pretentious path will eventually suffocate them, however if these companies accept the call for reinvention they will surely survive.

When I sit down and assess where the fashion industry is headed I can’t help but look at the humility of Chanel in The Great Depression. The fashion industry hit the lowest of lows, however it’s incredibly crazy to see the progress we made bouncing back. Altogether, I’m filled with optimism for the future of fashion. The labels that survive may not have to close doors for a period of time, but they will have to make serious adjustments. This economy is truly challenging our industry to a game of reinvention. This is a trial that the humble will surly surpass and succeed the prideful.

How To Take Advantage of The Sales Era

2009-03-30T11:28:00.000-07:00

In an era of no excess we are experiencing exorbitance given at a cheaper price. We have actually entered into a “sales” age where almost anything can be purchased for half the price. Gilt Group, a leader in high fashion sales has made this economy more bearable for the fashionista. The number one observation is, “wow this is a great pair of Valentino boots 50% off but will I actually wear them next year?” This post is for those of you who need a bit of direction in how to take advantage of this fabulous season of sales.

Save yourself a trip to Sephora and about $100 on the latest wrinkle cream because your stress of the fringe fetish can now halt. Make sure to save that $700 splurge on those Louboutin fringe boots (+ the $100 on the anti-wrinkle cream) and put that toward a pair of sexy high boots and a pair of casual ankle boots. Both of these trendy boots can accommodate your super skinny jeans and a strong feminine blazer for the remainder of 2009. If you haven’t purchased the perfect blazer, make sure to start shopping because it will be your go-to piece till Spring 2010. Hold tight to all those jewel tones you purchased last summer because they are here for a couple more seasons. Make sure to invest in all sorts of nudes, my favorite is the crocodile skin nudes because it is the perfect combination of two hot trends for Spring, Summer and Fall 2009. Never fear, for us girly girls, we can definitely look forward to a year filled with tiers, florals and feminine one-shoulder dresses. One last piece of advice as you’re scanning Bluefly.com and Daily Candy is metallics and plums are sure to sum up your year of 2009.

The Lens in Which The Muse is Perceived

2009-03-23T19:56:00.000-07:00

One of the most ancient design concepts has slowly evolved into being the foundation for all collections. Before a designer approaches the writing board they have an inspiration, an influence. There can be many influences however in most cases there is anywhere from one to three dominant ideas. The last influence a designer would disclose as a dominate ingredient to the collection would be him/herself, however they are always the strongest influence. The concept(s) that are visually apparent in the line are what we see, but the execution of the concept(s) are the designers perspective. For example, Dolce & Gabanna’s plaid is drastically different than Ralph Lauren’s plaid because of the differences in their outlook on the influence. Lauren took the Western influence to produce his fall 2008 ready-to-wear collection, while Stefano Gabbana used traditional Scotland textiles to produce D&G’s Fall 2008 ready-to-wear. Both designers executed visually similar concepts but delivered two independent collections. Lauren and Stefano’s perspective on plaid was an absolute necessity to each ready-to-wear collection.

D&G's Scottish Influenced Plaid

2009-03-23T17:20:00.001-07:00

Ralph Lauren's Western Influenced Plaid

2009-03-23T17:16:00.001-07:00

Who Influences the Influential?

2009-03-20T11:56:00.001-07:00

Best of Louis Vuitton 2009

2009-03-16T15:46:00.001-07:00

Jan Taminiau

2009-03-13T16:29:00.000-07:00

Jan Taminiau describes the foundation for his unique design perspective, “’The basis of my work is always the same,’ explains Taminiau. ‘I am continually translating the asymmetrical mirror of life. Everything I undertake in daily life, I place in my own context. This is reflected in my 2D/3D concept and my love of technique and craftsmanship.’” (100 New Fashion Designers, pg 179.) Taminiau is an intelligent designer who embraces his own lens of life. He comes from a family heritage of antique dealers and interior decorators. The work he releases is refined, elegant and rooted in a romantic feminine form. He is inspired by documentaries, museums, books and ancient textiles. When designing, Taminiau starts out with a two-dimensional textile swatch and he then breathes life into the fabric creating a three-dimensional genesis that evokes the feminine creation. Taminiau is constantly experimenting with obsolete techniques and trying to adapt and produce new means for design. Jan Taminiau was chosen as an elite top new designer because he is so much more than a designer, he is an entrepreneur, an inventor, Jan Taminiau is truly a creator.

Best of Jan Taminiau

2009-03-13T11:50:00.001-07:00

Emilio de la Morena

2009-03-12T16:05:00.000-07:00

The native Spanish sculptor, Emilio de la Morena is one of the most fascinating designers of this generation. Morena’s cultured perspective is apparent in every piece he creates. His designs will be found on sophisticated, strong and powerful women. Morena’s collection is full of inspirations from ancient embroidery techniques, architecture, sculpture and of course native fashions of his homeland. Emilio de la Morena was chosen as a top new designer by Cognitive Couture because every season is incredibly diverse and filled with different inspirations—his execution is absolutely flawless.

Best of Emilio de la Morena

2009-03-12T11:48:00.001-07:00

Felder & Felder

2009-03-11T12:20:00.000-07:00

Felder & Felder is a unique label filled with contrasting elements which aim for a subtle disharmony. The design team consists of twin sisters that play off their creative differences. This edgy yet feminine label dresses the female warriors of the world. The fascinating aspect of this dynamic collection is how inspirations are deconstructed and then balanced out with a contrasting element. The Felder duo has truly mastered the art of juxtaposition within rivalry. The Felder & Felder label was chosen to be one of Cognitive Couture’s top new designers because of the inspiration they are to every individualist. They truly walk, breathe, and design to the beat of their own drum and it’s absolutely refreshing.

Best of Felder & Felder

2009-03-11T12:19:00.001-07:00

Alice McCall

2009-03-10T10:07:00.000-07:00

Alice McCall is the first of four new designers that Cognitive Couture will be featuring this week. Alice has a pervasive collection that definitely mirrors her extensive experience in the fashion industry. She was a high profile stylist who transformed into a designer. As a stylist she was able to truly grasp the psyche of her customer which is more than apparent in her Fall 2009 collection. “I aim to create clothes that are desirable and stand the test of time.” McCall has a playful edge that brings a fresh approach to traditional concepts. Everything she creates, whether it is a Target exclusive, Sass & Bride or her own collection is able to transcend fashion, yet remain fashionable. Her music-infused style offers a sense of freedom to every garment she creates. Her label is a perfect medley of girlish charm and bohemian glamour. McCall was selected as a top new designer because of her progressive collection that is continually rising the bar.

Best of Alice McCall

2009-03-10T10:04:00.001-07:00

The New Zeitgeist

2009-03-09T10:05:00.000-07:00

This week will be an ode to a new design era--a new zeitgeist. Cognitive Couture will be featuring four new designers that know no rules nor boundaries. They belong to a culture of designers that are the back bone of the fashion industry, yet their names have never been found in a single rap song. They are the living envy of the master labels behind every catwalk because they are not limited by revenue, nor the next season. This generation is not defined by a design cycle or a manufacturing quota. Rather they define themselves as a new awakening; they bring a fresh eagerness to present a unique and personal philosophy to the industry. This new design zeitgeist aim for a signature style, where household labels and design houses are always so wrapped up by the next season. Big business and investors are not apart of creating their collection, rather they seek out inspirations from fine arts, science and social behavior. This new design era suggests modern concepts and are able to tap into a customers appetite for alternatives in fashion. They are the reinterpretation of contemporary clothing. They are the envy of every major designer.

Animal Instincts for Fall 2009

2009-03-04T13:12:00.001-08:00

The Haunting of Army Chic

2009-03-02T21:29:00.001-08:00

The Haunting of Army Chic

2009-03-02T20:18:00.000-08:00

World War II significantly damaged the fashion industry in 1939 due to the authoritative hand of the Nazi Army. Their goal was to transfer the entire fashion industry to Berlin or Vienna. The Parisian fashion industry found itself in one of the stickiest times in history. Due to quotas being enforced on supplies, manufacturing slowed to an almost snail like pace. Rare coupons were necessary to purchase rayon, which capped materials available to design houses and manufacturers. The Nazi Army suffocated the fashion industry, yet the couture houses lead the path to inventive frugality. They started refashioning old materials and created a trickle down effect where every household learned a canny like trait in terms of their family closet. A foreign path was handed to The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers by the British Board of Trade. They were commissioned to create a utility clothing scheme and before anyone knew it, the war was keeping the fashion industry afloat. Is the much more evolved and weathered industry about to bump into it's old enemy: war? Are designers foreshadowing or are they simply looking into the past for mere inspirations? Is history becoming a reality or are we creating history? I fear time is the only designer of this war.

Fall 2009 Jewel Tones

2009-02-27T13:01:00.001-08:00

The Longetivity of Jewel Tones

2009-02-26T12:51:00.001-08:00

The longevity of jewel tones completely mystifies me. How have they managed to claim a royal seat for the past 5 seasons? Jewel tones actually made a sneaky comeback through colorists and trend forecasting publications. The information that is handed off to designers, creative directors and stylists can make any identical color scheme seem like you are staring at two opposing forces ready for battle. How does this happen? Through something called a themed layout. For example Spring 2008 headlines boasted "Jewel Tones", Fall 2008 proclaimed "80's Chic" and Spring 2009 flaunted "Candy Tones". In terms of the intellectual fashionista those three color schemes are the product of an evolving palette. However, the bottom line in fashion is not runway nor couture, it's what you find on people whether it's Nordstrom, Dillard's, H&M or Dress Barn. And the bottom line in this inventive palette is one pure color scheme of emeralds that translates into an unchanging 5 seasons. So in reality is it the economy that is slowly sufficating the fashion industry or is it just pure laziness of the colorist?

Masculine Fall 2009

2009-02-25T12:01:00.001-08:00

Fashion As a Reflection of Societial Movements

2009-02-23T21:44:00.000-08:00

Fall 2009 is all about going back to our roots. The history of the 1930's has become a well endowed era in every political circle, however it is just starting to skim the chic fashion circles. Fall 2009 Runway has become a victim of one of my formulas:

Fashion = Society + Economic Movements.

The state of our economy and evolution of culture dictates fashion. As we see our country dip into old patterns the fashion industry has definitely started to mirror the movement.

Evolving Masculine Trends

Pantsuits
Vertical silhouettes
Trousers